Short answer
Rinnai codes point to a system: 10 is blocked venting, 11 is no ignition, 12 is flame loss, 14 is overheat, 25 is a condensate backup, and LC or SS means a flush is due. Owners can check gas, power, water valves, the inlet filter, vent terminals and the condensate line. Sensor, fan, valve and board codes need a pro.
Key facts
- Rinnai code 11 means the burner did not light; the first checks are the gas valve, gas service, and propane level.[1]
- Rinnai says to treat code 14, the overheat protection, seriously rather than repeatedly resetting it.[1]
- LC is the only Rinnai code that lets the unit keep running; it warns of scale building up in the heat exchanger.[1]
Before you use this table
If you smell gas, do not reset anything. Leave on foot, avoid anything that can spark, and call the gas utility and 911 from a safe place[2].
The table below paraphrases Rinnai's diagnostic code guide in our own words[1]. It is not Rinnai's text. Rinnai splits its line into SENSEI condensing models (RX, CX, RE, RSC, sold since 2019), non-SENSEI models (V-series, RL, RU, RUR, RUC and commercial C-series), and the RH180 hybrid. The "Applies to" notes tell you which. Meanings marked with an asterisk (*) are inferred from the checks Rinnai lists for that code; confirm them in your model's manual.
"Power cycle once" means turning the unit off and back on one time. If the code returns, stop.
Rinnai code table
| Code | What it means | Safe homeowner check | Call a pro when |
|---|---|---|---|
| 02* | Freeze protection ran but the burner could not fire (non-SENSEI) | Gas valve to the heater open; gas service on | Code returns with gas confirmed on |
| 03* | Power was lost mid-cycle, such as during a bath fill | Close hot taps, press On/Off twice, retry | It keeps coming back (possible board fault) |
| 05 | Bypass flow control valve fault | Power cycle once | It returns: the valve needs testing or replacement |
| 07* | RH180 only: low water supply pressure, pump not running, or clogged filter | Cold supply valve open; clean the inlet filter | Pump or heat exchanger service is needed |
| 10 | Combustion air or exhaust blocked, or a full condensate trap (condensing) | Clear snow, leaves or nests from the outside vent; check the condensate line drains | It returns: vent system or heat exchanger needs inspection |
| 11 | No ignition: burner did not light | Gas valve open at the heater and meter; propane tank not empty; power cycle once | Still no light: gas pressure, igniter or flame rod check |
| 12 | Flame lit, then went out | Confirm gas supply; note if it fails when other gas appliances run | Any repeat: gas pressure test under load, flame rod, venting |
| 13* | Poor combustion on B-vent (atmospheric) models | Note whether opening the door to the room helps, and tell the pro | Always: venting or combustion air needs correcting |
| 14 | Overheat protection tripped. Rinnai says to take this one seriously | Shut the unit off; do not keep resetting | Always |
| 15* | SENSEI: gas valve or venturi control fault | Power cycle once; check vent terminals are clear | It returns |
| 16 | Outlet water hotter than expected | Check the vent terminal and the space around the unit for obstructions | It returns, especially with a recirculation system |
| 17* | SENSEI: venturi or vent blockage; unit locks out | Check the condensate line and vent terminals | Always: the venturi must be cleaned and the lockout reset |
| 19* | Electrical grounding or current leakage fault | Power cycle only | Always: electrical diagnosis |
| 21* | SENSEI: board data transfer fault, usually after a board replacement | None | Always: the board needs reprogramming |
| 25 | Condensate backup (condensing models) | Check the condensate line for kinks, clogs or ice | Trap or neutralizer service is needed |
| 30 or FE | RH180: flammable vapor sensor tripped | Leave the area until it is safe; then remove gasoline, paint or solvents from the room | Sensor testing, or if you smell gas |
| 31* | RH180: burner manifold gas pressure setting problem | None | Always: gas pressure adjustment |
| 32, 33, 34, 35, 38, 41, 51* | A temperature sensor reads out of range: outlet water (32), heat exchanger outlet (33), combustion air (34), RH180 tank (35), exhaust (38), outdoor or freeze protection (41), inlet water (51) | Power cycle only | Always: sensor test and replacement |
| 52 | Modulating gas valve signal fault | None | Always |
| 54 | Exhaust temperature too high (Rinnai cites about 163 F) | Check the vent terminal | Heat exchanger service or vent repair is needed |
| 57, 58 | Non-SENSEI condensing (KB): a safety switch opened on the burner (57) or secondary heat exchanger (58) | None | Always: usually overheating or blockage |
| 61 | Combustion fan fault | None | Always: fan or wiring |
| 63* | Recirculation problem: pump, settings, or air in the loop | None | Always: recirculation setup or pump service |
| 65 | Water flow control (servo) valve fault | None | Always |
| 70, 71, 72, 73* | Internal control faults: board parameters (70), gas solenoid circuit (71), flame sensing (72), burner sensor (73, non-SENSEI) | Power cycle once | Always if it returns |
| 79 | Internal water leak detected (non-SENSEI) | Shut off water and power to the unit; put a pan under it | Always |
| FF | Not a fault: a marker that maintenance was done | No action | n/a |
| SE | SENSEI commercial cascade message | None | Cascade wiring or setup issue |
| SS | SENSEI: service reminder; a heat exchanger flush is due | Schedule a flush; the owner's manual gives the reset steps | You prefer not to flush it yourself |
| LC (LC0 to LC9) | Scale building up in the heat exchanger (non-SENSEI). The unit keeps running | Schedule a flush; consider water treatment | Before it progresses to a shutdown code |
Source: Rinnai document 100000652[1], paraphrased.
The codes owners see most
10, 11 and 12 account for many no-hot-water calls, and all three start with things you can check: the outside vent, the gas valve and the gas supply. If you are on propane, check the tank first.
14 is the one not to fight. An overheat trip means something let the unit get too hot. Shut it off and call.
LC and SS are maintenance prompts. Ignoring them lets scale build until it causes overheat or flow faults, which are more expensive. A flush and descale typically runs $75 to $300, per HomeGuide's 2025 figures[3].
When to call a pro
- Code 14, or any code tied to a sensor, gas valve, fan or board.
- Codes 10, 11 or 12 that return after the checks above.
- Code 79, or any water visible inside or under the cabinet.
- An RH180 flammable vapor code (30 or FE) if the cause is not obvious.
More questions
What is the difference between SENSEI and non-SENSEI Rinnai models?
SENSEI is Rinnai's condensing platform launched in 2019 (RX, CX, RE and RSC models). Non-SENSEI covers the V-series, RL, the RU, RUR and RUC condensing models, and commercial C-series. A few codes exist on only one family.
Can I clear an LC code myself?
The owner's manual describes the flush and the button sequence that clears the reminder. If you are not comfortable isolating the service valves and running descaler through the unit, a plumber typically charges $75 to $300 for a flush.
Sources
- Troubleshooting Tankless Water Heater Diagnostic Codes (document 100000652), Rinnai America. Accessed 2026-10-06.
- What to do if you smell natural gas, CenterPoint Energy. Accessed 2026-10-06.
- Hot water heater repair cost (Aug 7, 2025), HomeGuide. Accessed 2026-10-06.
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