Short answer
Rheem tankless codes are two digits or letters. 11 means no flame at ignition, 12 is flame loss, 10, 90 and 99 point to venting, 14 and 15 are overheating, 1L is scale, and 29, 92 and 93 are condensate or neutralizer issues on condensing models. Owners can check gas, power, the inlet filter, vents and the condensate line.
Key facts
Before you use this table
If you smell gas, do not reset anything. Leave on foot, avoid anything that can spark, and call the gas utility and 911 from a safe place[2].
This table paraphrases Rheem's SVC820 tankless gas troubleshooting manual, which covers Rheem and Ruud non-condensing and condensing units, indoor and outdoor[1]. It is our wording, not Rheem's. Newer Rheem platforms may use different codes; check your unit's manual. Rheem technical service is listed at 1-800-432-8373[1].
Rheem tankless code table
| Code | What it means | Safe homeowner check | Call a pro when |
|---|---|---|---|
| No code, no hot water | Display shows the setpoint but water stays cold | Power off and on once; clean the inlet water filter | Still cold: possible swapped hot and cold lines or a plumbing cross-over |
| P1 | Hot water is not being delivered | Reset once; clean the inlet filter | It returns |
| 1L | Scale building up in the heat exchanger; flush to avoid damage | Schedule a flush (Rheem sells a flush kit) | You prefer not to flush it yourself |
| 03 | Communication failure between linked units or a manifold controller (multi-unit installs) | None | Always |
| 05 | Indoor units: flame rod sensing poor combustion (warning) | Check the outside vent terminal | It returns: gas and vent diagnosis |
| 10 | Vent or blower problem, such as running before venting was installed or low airflow. Hard lockout | Check the vent terminal for blockage | Always: reset procedure and blower diagnosis |
| 11 | No flame detected during ignition | Gas valve open and gas service on | Still no flame: gas pressure, altitude setting, igniter or board |
| 12 | Flame lit, then was lost | Confirm gas supply | It returns |
| 13 | Indoor units: poor combustion detected. Hard lockout | None | Always |
| 14 | Overheat limiter tripped | Stop resetting | Always |
| 15 | Water or heat exchanger hit about 207 F for over 15 seconds | Schedule a flush (scale is a common cause) | Always if it returns: sensor and gas checks |
| 16 | Outlet water above the setpoint | None | Always: outlet sensor or bypass valve |
| 24 | Remote control buttons held more than 20 seconds | Release the buttons and retry | It repeats: remote may be faulty |
| 29 | Condensing units: condensate not draining, or heat exchanger too cold for over 3 minutes | Check the condensate line for clogs or ice | It returns: trap, neutralizer or sensor service |
| 31, 32, 33, 34 | Temperature sensor fault: inlet (31), heat exchanger (32), outlet (33), ambient (34) | None | Always |
| 35 | Sensors plugged into the wrong place or poorly connected | None | Always |
| 51, 80 | Gas control valve fault: flame still present after hot water demand stopped | Shut off gas to the unit | Always, right away |
| 52 | Modulating gas valve fault | None | Always |
| 61, 79 | Blower fault: wrong speed (61) or motor current fault (79) | None | Always |
| 65, 66 | Water volume control valve fault (65) or water bypass valve fault (66) | None | Always |
| 71 | Gas control valve inlet solenoid fault | None | Always |
| 72 | Flame rod senses flame before ignition (false flame) | None | Always |
| 76 | Remote control not talking to the board | None | Always |
| 82 | Control board program chip fault | None | Always: board replacement |
| 90, 99 | Vent blockage detected during purge, or the unit ran before the vent was installed. 99 is a hard lockout | Check the outside vent terminals | Always for 99; for 90 if it returns |
| 92 | Condensing units: neutralizer needs service soon; the unit keeps running for now | Schedule service | Book it before it becomes 93 |
| 93 | Condensing units: will not run until the neutralizer is serviced | None | Always |
Source: Rheem SVC820[1], paraphrased.
Codes to treat as urgent
- 51 and 80 mean the gas valve may not be closing when it should. Shut off the gas to the unit and call[1].
- 14, 15 and 16 are temperature problems. Repeated resets can mask a real overheat.
- 10, 13 and 99 are venting or combustion lockouts. Do not try to bypass them.
"No code, no hot water" is common on new installs
Rheem's manual lists two causes worth knowing before you pay for parts: hot and cold lines swapped at installation, and a plumbing cross-over, such as a failed single-handle faucet cartridge or mixing valve letting cold water into the hot line[1]. A plumber can isolate fixtures to find a cross-over.
Scale and condensate: the maintenance codes
1L appears before scale does damage. 92 warns that the condensate neutralizer needs service, and 93 follows if it is ignored, shutting the unit down[1]. HomeGuide's 2025 range for a tankless flush and descale is $75 to $300[3].
When to call a pro
- Codes 51 or 80: shut off the gas to the unit first.
- Any hard lockout (10, 13, 99) or overheat code (14, 15, 16).
- Any sensor, valve, blower, remote or board code.
- No hot water with no code after a reset and a clean inlet filter.
More questions
Do these codes apply to Ruud tankless units?
Yes. Rheem's SVC820 service manual covers both Rheem and Ruud gas tankless units. Newer platforms, such as models with EcoNet controls, have their own service manuals and some different codes.
What is a hard lockout?
A lockout that does not clear with a simple power cycle. Rheem treats codes 10, 13 and 99 this way because they involve venting or combustion. A technician fixes the cause and then follows the reset procedure.
Sources
- Tankless Gas Troubleshooting Pocket Manual SVC820, Rheem Manufacturing. Accessed 2026-10-06.
- What to do if you smell natural gas, CenterPoint Energy. Accessed 2026-10-06.
- Hot water heater repair cost (Aug 7, 2025), HomeGuide. Accessed 2026-10-06.
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